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| Customer Reviews: | | Average Customer Review: ( 7 customer reviews )
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9 of 10 found the following review helpful:
 A LONG time coming - simply amazing Oct 29, 2009
By Seth
Just got one of the first copies it looks like - quick shipping! I've been hearing about the publication of this book for a while now, so I'm really glad it lived up the hype!
The training and conditioning sections are great. I like how it's straight to the point and doesn't mess around with graphs and quizzes. There are a ton of exercises. I really like the core training section. I've never seen such a collection of exercises like this. Like the previous reviewer said, most books seem to pick a few, this one has them all. The book explains which ones are the ones you should do so you don't have to do them all.
I've been suffering from a rotator cuff and wrist sprain for a long time now, so I was happy to see every single thing my PT has suggested in the book already in there, plus other treatment options. I'm now a little upset with my ortho and pt because they never gave me all the options. The book doesn't talk about every single specific injury, but instead it talks about "types" of injuries, the different types of practitioners, and how those can be treated. Basically, Dr. Layton gives the patient the tools and information to make informed decisions, and do some self treatment as well. I like that! I like being told about options, instead of just a bunch of PT stretches and exercises (which this book has a lot of by the way!).
I'm not into nutrition per say, so I was going to gloss over this chapter, but it turns out that the book really talks about normal eating and drinking but how it relates to climbing. I was expecting a lot of weird supplement recommendations since he's a chiro, but what he offered was good solid advice.
The tips and gear section are excellent! I can't believe how much information is packed into this book. It's like a 2010 version of Mark Twight's Extreme Alpinism, but for everyone, not just extreme ice climbers. I wish he had more illustrations even though I don't know where they could fit. That illustrator is a really good artist! It was also cool to see published info on how to ethically bolt and place anchors, and also see some published info on the ins and outs of rope-soloing. I think this section (the gear and tips are really one section I think) is worth the price alone.
I also agree with the other reviewer in that this book is pretty funny too. Layton's sense of humor is awesome, but I bet it gets him into a lot of trouble. Good for him, I laughed myself silly a few times at his photos and particular way of phrasing things (his rant on "bailure" is my favorite). The OCD software engineer climbers out there will probably "harumph" a few times! I lived in the Pacific NW when Dr. Layton did, so I heard of his F.A's, and he was certainly a legend! It's funny that after reading this book you kind of want to just climb with the dude! Oh, there are some typos. It looks like he pretty much did everything himself, so I forgive him because I know what happens when big publishers get a hold of books. I hope that no one writes a bad review based on that because the info in this book has been a LONG time coming.
7 of 8 found the following review helpful:
WOW!!!!!! Oct 29, 2009
By Brittany
This book ROCKS!!!!! I was not expecting this at all. I cannot believe how much awesome information is in this book. I was expecting another training book with maybe a couple more ideas in it. I wasn't expecting all that extra stretching and conditioning beta, i've always been bummed at the lack of that in other books. It's also a pretty funny read sometimes. What completely blew me aways was the rehab section and the tips. Instead of dryly going through a bunc of b.s., he lays out what your options are for rehab and non-surgical treatments. There are so many tips i can't get started (or wait to apply them to my next trip to the sierras). Hope this first review helps. This is one of those "gold mines" that I'm going to have to re-read ten times. Thanks! Did I mention that some of the photos are hilarious!
3 of 3 found the following review helpful:
Filling the Void and Jam Packed Mar 27, 2010
By SteveH
Upon 1st flip through, this book may look like another re-done attempt at a how to train for climbing text with a bunch of random topics thrown in as the last review suggests. I suppose if you were specifically in the market for just that and got this book for that purpose you may be disappointed. However, by going through the book carefully, you see that how to train for climbing was not the main intent of this book (at least I think). It was to fill in all the stuff missing from other "how to" books out there...kinda like an update on Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" but not solely intended for alpinists and ice-climbers.
I personally liked the climbing specific training section because it was like tearing out all the b.s. pages of a full-book on the subject! It's like the cliff notes version of Performance Rock Climbing. But, the beefy core training, stretching, and injury exercises IMO are the most comprehensive out there - not just in a climbing book - but really anywhere. I also think the section on bolting was well done and well introduced. The author(s) made it clear that that bolting must be done ethically and the damage done is irreversible. Complaining about a chapter on how to properly bolt, to me, seems like the same argument made against free condoms and sex-ed in high schools!
The thing I like best about the book is just how much info is crammed in, and the variety of subjects. I made the mistake of skimming sections I wasn't too interested in, or thought I knew everything about. The author makes numerous references and recommendations to other texts like "Freedom of the Hills". I don't think this book was intended in any way to substitute for a book like that - what I think the book does is expound upon those types of books, which is exactly why I bought it and absolutely love it.
-Steve
1 of 1 found the following review helpful:
No excuses now! Nov 22, 2011
By JJP
I've been out of active climbing for a few years now, and I'm trying to get back into climbing specific shape. I know that this puts me at a pretty significant risk for injury, and that I'm pretty good at not training. What I like about this book is the fact that it combines climber-specific info that would normally have to be searched from a bunch of different books on mountaineering, nutrition, strength training, etc. So I pretty much don't have any excuses for not having the info on everything I need. And it's a fun read, which is important for me. Nothing repulses me from the science of rehab and training like too much data and not enough author personality.
ROCK ON Apr 21, 2011
By roskodolly
Rock on! What a great book! So much great and usable information packed into such a little book. Very helpful in all aspects. Even if you don't climb this is a "go to book" for all your bodies needs. I really like the fact that the writer is a Chiropractor, someone who really knows the body well. Bones and muscles. After all they all work together. I highly recommend this book for anyone who has a bad back and wants to work out, improve their range of motion, strength,and overall health. Get it, use it! You will be happy you did. I am.
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